Nathan Myhrvold (Intellectual Ventures Co-founder) – Modernist Cuisine (Sep 2016)


Chapters

00:00:23 Modernist Cuisine: Exploring the Art and Science of Cooking
00:07:59 Modernist Cuisine: A Comprehensive Exploration of Science, Techniques, and Recipes
00:19:52 The Science of Cooking
00:26:21 Culinary Innovations: From Beef Suet Mousseline to Ballistics Gelatin
00:28:47 Cooking with Science
00:34:21 Myths and Truths about Cooking Methods
00:38:18 Kitchen Tech Innovations from Science Labs
00:44:34 Behind the Scenes of Cookbook Publication
00:47:46 Common Misconceptions About Health and Food

Abstract

Revolutionizing Culinary Arts: The Science and Craft of Modernist Cuisine

Nathan Myhrvold, the former CTO of Microsoft and founder of Intellectual Ventures, has authored a six-volume, 2,438-page book titled “Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking.” This unique work aims to revolutionize cooking by exploring science-inspired techniques and presenting food as art. The book contains 1.1 million words, 3,200 high-quality photographs, 1,522 recipes, and contributions from 72 renowned chefs. Four pounds of ink are used in each volume, highlighting the significance of physical print for high-resolution images. Myhrvold emphasizes the collaborative nature of the project, involving 44 writers, editors, and art staff.

Comprehensive Content: A Deep Dive into Culinary Science

Spanning an impressive 2,438 pages, the book encompasses 1.1 million words, 150,000 pictures, and 1,522 recipes. It’s the culmination of efforts from 72 world-renowned chefs and 44 writers, editors, and art staff. The volumes cover various subjects, from the basics of cooking, cooking techniques, and equipment to the properties of different ingredients, including meat and plants. It also delves into specific preparations like thickeners, emulsions, and beverages, culminating in a volume dedicated to plated dish recipes and a practical, kitchen-friendly recipe book.

The Fusion of Technology and Gastronomy

Myhrvold’s background at Microsoft influenced not only his approach to the project but also the technology used in the book. His patents on stochastic screening, developed during his time at Microsoft, were utilized to enhance image quality. Furthermore, the use of wide gamut inks captures a more vibrant color spectrum in the images. These technological advancements, along with the decision to use high-quality paper over digital platforms, significantly elevate the visual appeal of the book.

Innovation and Challenges in Culinary Photography

The book stands out for its unique approach to culinary photography, featuring cutaway photos to illustrate the inner workings of food during cooking. Capturing these images posed significant challenges, which were creatively overcome using techniques like gluing glass pieces and digital manipulation.

Empowering Home Cooks with Scientific Knowledge

A key motivation behind this work was to make the wealth of scientific knowledge and innovative cooking techniques accessible to home cooks. The book aims to empower its readers with a deeper understanding of the science behind cooking, enabling them to refine and enhance their culinary skills.

Beyond Traditional Cooking: Exploring New Frontiers

The volumes explore unconventional cooking methods, such as sous vide and the use of liquid nitrogen. These techniques, while seemingly avant-garde, are presented in a manner that makes them accessible to adventurous home cooks. Moreover, the book doesn’t shy away from exploring whimsical ideas like cooking burgers in space, highlighting Myhrvold’s creativity and willingness to push culinary boundaries.

Debunking Myths and Embracing Science

An underlying theme of the book is the debunking of common culinary myths and the emphasis on the scientific principles governing cooking processes. From challenging traditional beliefs about cheese melting to exploring the physics of popcorn expansion, the book encourages chefs and home cooks alike to question and understand the science in their kitchens.

Accessibility and Practicality

Despite its comprehensive and scientific approach, the book maintains a balance between accessibility and adventurousness. Approximately half of the recipes are easily doable with standard kitchen equipment, while the rest might require more specialized ingredients and tools. This blend ensures that the book caters to a wide range of culinary enthusiasts.

Culinary Innovations: Decoding Comfort Food and Scientific Experimentation

The speaker introduces a special mushroom patty, smoke-flavored lettuce, vacuum-compressed tomato, and beef suet mousseline as components of their ultimate burger. They describe how James Craft invented a method for cheese to melt perfectly, leading to the creation of Velveeta. The speaker also shares a recipe for making one’s own Velveeta-like cheese using Gruyere, Emmental, or other preferred cheeses. Mushroom ketchup is mentioned as an additional ingredient in their ultimate burger.

The Science of Popcorn and Comfort Food’s Subtly

Popcorn expands by a factor of 1600 when it boils into steam. This expansion is why it takes a lot of energy to boil water and is essential for pressure cookers. People have personal notions of comfort food, and the speaker’s favorite hamburger is not greasy or overcooked, emphasizing the importance of subtleties in appreciating the best burgers.

Implementing Recipes and Techniques: A Range of Options

About half of the recipes in the book are feasible for anyone with basic kitchen equipment. 75% of the recipes are doable with additional equipment from a kitchen store. The remaining 25% are more adventurous and require specialized equipment. Liquid nitrogen is surprisingly accessible and affordable. It can be delivered to homes and is used in doctor’s offices. It’s not as dangerous as people think and is fun to experiment with.

Debunking Common Kitchen Myths through Scientific Experiments

The misconception that plunging cooked food into ice water halts the cooking process is addressed. The rate of heat transfer is primarily determined by thermal conductivity and diffusivity. Introducing a pulse of cold (ice water) does not overtake the heat pulse already present. The maximum temperature reached by the food’s interior remains unaffected by this method.

The belief that confit, a slow cooking method in oil or fat, imparts a distinct rich and silky texture is challenged. Oil molecules are too large to diffuse into the food’s center within the cooking time. Blind taste tests revealed no discernible difference between confit-cooked meat and steamed meat when time and temperature were controlled. Chefs’ resistance to this finding highlights the importance of empirical evidence over personal beliefs.

The Future of Culinary Literature

“The Art and Science of Cooking” has set a new standard for culinary literature and hints at future expansions, potentially exploring areas like baking and desserts. Its innovative approach, combining scientific rigor with culinary artistry, paves the way for a new era in the culinary world, where the kitchen becomes a laboratory for creative and informed cooking.

The Role of Science in the Kitchen:

The speaker emphasizes that the laws of physics govern kitchen processes, and ignorance of these principles leads to misconceptions and errors.

Wine Myths and Experiments:

Common wine myths are debunked through experiments, showcasing the subjective nature of wine tasting.

Challenges in Distinguishing Subtle Differences:

Triangle tests demonstrate the difficulty in discerning subtle taste variations, even for experts.

Steam Ovens and Rotor-Stator Homogenizers:

Steam ovens offer an alternative to water baths for sous vide cooking, and rotor-stator homogenizers could transition from lab to home use.

Book Availability:

A stockout occurred due to overwhelming demand, but a new batch of copies is expected to arrive in June and July, with full restocking on Amazon anticipated by mid-August.

Shipping:

Amazon and other retailers face challenges in shipping books quickly, affecting delivery times.

Ingredients:

Sodium citrate (sour salt) is found in the kosher section of grocery stores, xanthan gum is available in pancake mixes and flour sections, and Chef Rubber offers a variety of unique ingredients.

Book Design:

The design team included a full-time art director, emphasizing the importance of visual appeal.

Creating a Unique Cookbook:

A science magazine model was chosen for the cookbook, combining photos with technical information.

Health Implications of New Ingredients:

A chapter addresses concerns about unfamiliar ingredients, noting that newer ingredients may not have undergone formal testing.

Statistical Evidence on Health Claims:

Studies show weak or no correlation between saturated fat and health concerns, and similar findings for fiber and colon cancer.

The Nurses Study:

A long-term study revealed no higher coronary death rate among butter eaters compared to margarine eaters, highlighting the health risks of trans fats.

Favorite Recipe:

A personal favorite is a simple yet delicious scrambled egg recipe, using two whole eggs and one egg yolk for richer flavor and texture, cooked in a steam oven or sous vide for perfect results.


Notes by: datagram