Nathan Myhrvold (Intellectual Ventures Co-founder) – Culinary Institute of America Worlds of Flavor Conference (Nov 2013)

Chapters

Abstract

Culinary Wizardry: Nathan Myhrvold’s Journey from Microsoft to Mastering Modernist Cuisine

Nathan Myhrvold, a former high-ranking executive at Microsoft, has astounded the culinary world with his groundbreaking work, “Modernist Cuisine.” This article delves into Myhrvold’s remarkable journey from the tech industry to culinary innovation, highlighting his collaborations, unique approaches to food science, and the profound impact of his work on modern gastronomy. Tim Ryan, a culinary expert, introduces Myhrvold’s compelling story, which intertwines his prestigious academic background with a deep-rooted passion for cooking, leading to revolutionary culinary techniques and insights.

Nathan Myhrvold: A Prodigious Journey from Tech to Culinary Innovator

Born and raised in Santa Monica, California, Nathan Myhrvold showcased his culinary skills at a young age, cooking Thanksgiving dinner at nine years old. His academic pursuits were extraordinary. He attended UCLA at the age of 14, earning bachelor’s and master’s degrees in mathematics, geophysics, and space physics. He then went on to Princeton and Cambridge University, where he pursued advanced degrees in mathematical economics, theoretical and mathematical physics, and a post-doctoral fellowship under Stephen Hawking. Myhrvold’s intellectual curiosity and innovation caught the eye of Bill Gates, leading to his influential role at Microsoft. Despite his tech success, Myhrvold’s genuine passion for cooking remained, leading him to work in a restaurant while at Microsoft and eventually transitioning fully into the culinary world.

Modernist Cuisine: Revolutionizing the Culinary Landscape

Myhrvold’s magnum opus, “Modernist Cuisine,” has been hailed as a seminal work in culinary literature, revolutionizing how we understand and approach cooking. This comprehensive exploration of culinary science and techniques goes beyond traditional cookbooks, offering insights into the art and science of cooking. Its successors, “Modernist Cuisine at Home” and “Modernist Cuisine Photography,” continue to influence chefs and food enthusiasts alike, bringing sophisticated culinary techniques into the home kitchen.

Future Endeavors: Expanding the Horizons of Culinary Science

Myhrvold’s latest projects include a trilogy focusing on baking, pastry, and breads, co-authored with Francisco Magoya, a renowned pastry chef from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). This collaboration symbolizes the fusion of scientific insight and culinary artistry, promising to further advance our understanding of these disciplines. During a talk at the CIA, Myhrvold discussed the release of an e-book version of his latest work, addressing complaints about the physical books’ size and weight.

The Role of Fundamental Knowledge in Culinary Innovation

Myhrvold’s philosophy underscores the importance of fundamental knowledge in fostering innovation. He draws parallels between culinary science and architectural marvels like the Calatrava bridge, emphasizing that a deep understanding of the basics is crucial for creative and successful outcomes. His approach is exemplified by his use of scientific insights to transform cooking techniques, such as enhancing the browning of foods through alkaline solutions or innovating with pressure cooking and baking soda to preserve flavors and nutrients.

Culinary Innovations: Embracing Science and Creativity

Myhrvold’s culinary creations are a testament to his philosophy of celebrating ingredients and enhancing natural flavors. From creating a vegan pistachio gelato with intense flavor to developing a kosher veal sauce, his innovations showcase his ability to reimagine traditional dishes using scientific principles. His focus on emulsions, as seen in the creation of cream from various fats and liquids, and his inventive approach to enhancing sauces with fat jus like jus gras, highlight his commitment to culinary excellence and innovation.

Mastering the Art of Cooking with Heat Diffusion and Sous Vide

Understanding the science of heat diffusion and applying techniques like sous vide and CVAP ovens has allowed Myhrvold to tackle the challenges of achieving uniform doneness without sacrificing flavor and texture. His insights into Fourier’s law and the diffusivity of heat underscore the importance of scientific knowledge in culinary arts.

Resolving Culinary Contradictions: The Example of Roast Chicken

Myhrvold addresses the inherent contradictions in traditional cooking methods, such as achieving crispy skin and tender meat in roast chicken. He advocates for a no-compromise approach, applying scientific understanding to overcome these challenges, much like the multi-step preparation of Peking duck.

The Science of Precision: Sous Vide Eggs and Innovative Techniques

Myhrvold’s use of sous vide cooking for precise temperature control exemplifies his commitment to precision and innovation. His approach to transforming traditional dishes, like baked omelets, and applying centrifugation to create pea butter, demonstrates his dedication to enhancing the culinary experience through science.

Challenging Conventional Wisdom: Salting Wine and Other Innovations

Nathan Myhrvold challenges traditional culinary norms, as seen in his unconventional approach of salting wine to enhance its savory qualities. This willingness to experiment and rethink established practices is a hallmark of his culinary philosophy.

A Fusion of Science and Gastronomy

Nathan Myhrvold’s journey from a tech giant to a culinary innovator highlights the transformative power of combining scientific knowledge with creative culinary artistry. His work in modernist cuisine not only revolutionizes cooking techniques but also inspires a new appreciation for the science behind gastronomy. By challenging conventional methods and embracing innovation, Myhrvold continues to influence and redefine the culinary world.

Supplemental Insights:

– Escoffier’s cookbook lacked detailed explanations, but today’s understanding of food science provides a springboard for creativity in cooking.

– Pretzels get their brown color from lye, which creates an alkaline environment that promotes browning reactions.

– Acidic marinades inhibit browning, while alkaline environments enhance it.

– Baking powder can be used instead of lye to create an alkaline environment for browning, resulting in intense colors and rich flavors.

– Pressure cookers and baking soda can be used together to enhance browning and flavor development in various foods.

– Cream can be artificially created by emulsifying any fat with any water-based liquid.

– Jus gras is an innovative dish that uses rendered chicken fat to enrich and thicken sauces without overpowering the main ingredients.

– Nathan Myhrvold’s veal in cream sauce adheres to kosher dietary guidelines, preserving the delicate flavor of veal as the dominant taste.

– Pistachio ice cream can be infused with intense pistachio flavor by separating the oil from ground pistachios and combining it with water to create a pistachio cream.

– Vegan gelato can deliver rich and satisfying taste by using pistachio cream as the base, challenging the notion that vegan desserts are inferior.

Additional Insights:

– Conventional cooking methods often result in overcooked edges and undercooked centers in food due to the uneven distribution of heat. Joseph Fourier’s laws of heat diffusion explain how heat moves through food, and the diffusivity constant K determines the rate of heat transfer. Food is a poor conductor of heat, which is why it can be difficult to achieve even cooking.

– Sous vide and CVAP ovens offer alternative cooking methods that allow for more precise temperature control. By cooking food at a temperature just above the desired internal temperature, these methods can achieve even cooking throughout the food. Sous vide involves cooking food in a sealed bag in a water bath, while CVAP ovens use a combination of hot air and steam.

– Sous vide cooking allows for precise control over the texture of eggs and custards. The “custard table” predicts the texture of a custard based on the dilution and cooking temperature. Modernist cooking isn’t about fancy equipment but understanding techniques and applying them creatively.

– Adapting ideas from pastry, such as the biscuit joconde technique, can be applied to savory dishes. The centrifuge separates peas into three layers: pea broth, pea butter, and pea starch. Pea butter captures the flavor molecules and has a butter-like texture. Science-based cooking can enhance ingredients and celebrate their flavors.

– Salting wine may seem absurd, but it can balance flavors and enhance the wine’s character. Seasoning food is common, so why not apply it to wine? Adding a small amount of salt alters the flavor balance, sometimes for the better.

Notes by: datagram