Nathan Myhrvold (Intellectual Ventures Co-founder) – Gastronomy Shapers | Basque Culinary Center (Jan 2021)


Chapters

00:00:46 Modernist Cuisine: Innovations in Culinary Science and Technology
00:03:18 Creating Stable Foams and Emulsions: Tips and Techniques
00:14:51 Emulsifiers and Thickeners in Culinary Innovations
00:17:31 Choosing the Right Thickener for Gels at Low and High Temperatures
00:19:32 The Role of Gels and Foams in Cooking
00:29:20 Science of Foams: Insights from Ice Cream and Whipped Cream
00:32:41 Whipped Cream Innovations Using Hydrocolloids and Cocoa Butter
00:35:49 The Physics of Bubbles and Emulsions
00:44:15 DIY Edible Bubbles at Home
00:46:52 Science and Innovation in Cuisine
00:53:34 Physical Chemistry and Gastronomy: Exploring New Horizons
00:58:41 One Hour of Loads of Answers

Abstract

Exploring the Intersection of Gastronomy and Physical Chemistry: A Dive into Modernist Cuisine

“The Science in the Sauce: Unveiling the Chemistry of Modern Culinary Techniques”



Nathan Mirbaud, a culinary pioneer and intellectual polyglot, shared his insights into the physical chemistry underlying modern culinary practices. With a unique blend of expertise in mathematics, physics, and gastronomy, he sheds light on the intricate relationship between culinary art and scientific principles. Mirbaud’s work extends beyond cooking into knowledge creation, publishing, and material development, deepening our understanding of gastronomy. His expertise in physical chemistry, particularly in emulsions, foams, and gels, is evident in his approach to cooking.



Segment Summaries and Expansion

1. Nathan Mirbaud’s Multifaceted Expertise:

Nathan Mirbaud’s culinary prowess is matched by his scientific knowledge, encompassing a PhD in mathematics, theoretical and mathematical physics, master’s degrees in various disciplines, and a culinary diploma. He actively creates knowledge, publishes, and develops materials to enhance the understanding of gastronomy. His expertise in physical chemistry shines through in his culinary techniques, especially in manipulating emulsions, gels, and foams.

2. The Science Behind Culinary Techniques:

Mirbaud’s culinary science session focused on addressing students’ questions about the physical chemistry of cooking, delving into the stability of foams, the complexities of emulsions, and the properties of gelling agents and thickeners.

3. Foams in Culinary Applications:

Creating a foam requires an agent to provide body and enable foaming. Alcohol destabilizes foams by draining out. Temperature also affects foam stability; as it rises, the chemical basis for holding bubbles together weakens, and evaporation occurs.

Mirbaud discussed achieving and stabilizing foams using ingredients like dextrose, xanthan gum, and CO2. He highlighted the role of fat in stabilizing air bubbles in foams and whipped cream, with fat crystals playing a crucial role in maintaining foam structure.

4. Emulsions: Understanding the Science:

Emulsions are natural or artificial mixtures of two immiscible liquids. In cooking, emulsions are often used to create foams, such as whipped cream or meringue. Saturated fats, like those found in cow’s milk, can be whipped into stable foams because they crystallize. Unsaturated fats, like those found in pistachio oil, cannot be whipped into stable foams because they do not crystallize.

Mirbaud explained the challenges of creating low-fat mayonnaise and other emulsions, emphasizing the importance of emulsifiers and thickeners. These ingredients stabilize the interface between oil and water, contributing to the overall stability and texture of the emulsion.

5. Gels: A Key Ingredient in Modern Cuisine:

Mirbaud discussed the use of gels, such as gellan gum and agar, emphasizing their ability to create strong, elastic, or brittle gels depending on the presence of cations like calcium. Gellan gum’s shear-thinning property makes it ideal for creating foams, enhancing the texture and stability of culinary creations.

6. The Role of Thickeners and Stabilizers:

Mirbaud’s favorite thickener, Gelin, along with agar and other options, was discussed for their ability to create a range of textures and their suitability for high temperatures. The selection of thickeners depends on the desired texture and application in culinary preparations.

Thickeners can be used to stabilize emulsions and foams. Xanthan gum can thicken lychee and lime soda, creating a foam that resembles an Alka-Seltzer tablet. Gum Arabic is commonly used in sodas to increase body and hold bubbles without creating a thick, dense foam.

7. The Art of Whipping and Air Incorporation:

Mirbaud explored the process of whipping and air incorporation in products like ice cream and whipped cream, discussing the role of overrun in ice cream, the stabilizing effect of fat crystals, and the challenges in replacing saturated fat in whipped cream. This highlighted the intricate science behind these everyday culinary products.

8. Empirical Learning and Historical Exclusion in the Kitchen:

Mirbaud addressed the historical exclusion of chefs from food science knowledge, primarily focused on industrial food production. He stressed the importance of chefs engaging with physical chemists and food scientists to drive research in relevant areas, bridging the gap between traditional empirical learning and modern scientific advancements.

9. Modernist Cuisine and Its Democratic Aim:

The modernist cuisine movement, led by chefs like Ferran Adria and inspired by food science knowledge, aims to democratize this knowledge, making it accessible to all chefs. This movement underscores the synergy between the art of cooking and scientific principles, encouraging innovation and creativity in the kitchen.

10. Concluding Thoughts:

Nathan Mirbaud’s presentation, though limited by time, sparked numerous questions, underscoring the growing interest in and need for a deeper understanding of the science behind cooking. This intersection of gastronomy and physical chemistry not only enhances the culinary experience but also opens new avenues for creative exploration in the kitchen.





Nathan Mirbaud’s insightful session shed light on the crucial role of physical chemistry in modern gastronomy. His expertise bridges the gap between traditional culinary practices and scientific innovation, offering chefs and food enthusiasts a new perspective on the art of cooking. As the modernist cuisine movement continues to grow, it promises to revolutionize the culinary world by integrating scientific knowledge with culinary artistry, thereby enriching our appreciation and understanding of the food we eat.

Supplemental Updates

The Significance of Physical Chemistry in Culinary Innovation:

Physical chemistry is crucial for culinary innovation, allowing chefs to manipulate ingredients and techniques to create novel dishes. Nathan Myhrvold compares culinary innovation to architecture, where chefs use physical chemistry principles to design complex dishes, just as architects use engineering principles to design buildings.

Scientific Knowledge Empowers Chefs:

Understanding physical chemistry allows chefs to appreciate and enjoy food more deeply and create unique and surprising dishes that enhance the dining experience.

Influence of Science on Modern Cuisine:

The integration of science in modern cuisine has led to significant advancements and creativity. Chefs like Ferran Adria and Juan Maria Arzak have drawn inspiration from scientific knowledge to revolutionize culinary techniques and create innovative dishes.

Importance of Accessibility to Scientific Knowledge:

Nathan Myhrvold emphasizes the need for chefs to have access to scientific knowledge to drive innovation and creativity. His book, Modernist Cuisine, was written to make scientific knowledge accessible to chefs and promote its application in culinary arts.

The Scientific Method in the Kitchen:

Applying the scientific method, the foundation of rational thought, in the kitchen allows chefs to systematically explore and refine their techniques, leading to consistent and successful results.

Art and Science in Cooking:

Cooking can be an art form when it engages our thoughts and emotions as much as other artistic forms. Architecture is an example of an art enabled by science, and cooking shares this characteristic.

Empirical Learning in the Kitchen:

Historically, cooking has been practiced before the scientific principles behind it were fully understood. Examples like wine and bread making illustrate how empirical knowledge has helped develop culinary techniques.

Personal Preferences in Food:

Myhrvold emphasizes that food choices are personal and should not be dictated by others. He respects those who prefer traditional cooking methods and ingredients, even if he believes there is room for innovation.

Cultural Evolution of Culinary Tastes:

Myhrvold points out that food preferences and tastes evolve over generations. Sushi, once exclusive to Japanese cuisine, is now a part of global culinary heritage.

Challenges in Physical Chemistry and Gastronomy:

Physical chemistry research in gastronomy has been limited due to a lack of funding. Chefs need to be more proactive in engaging with physical chemists and food scientists to address their specific challenges.


Notes by: MatrixKarma