Nathan Myhrvold (Intellectual Ventures Co-founder) – NYT Interview (Apr 2016)


Chapters

00:00:35 Modernist Cuisine: Revelations from a Chef, a Scientist, and a Journalist
00:11:46 Science of Sous Vide Cooking
00:14:02 Science Lessons from Cooking
00:16:18 Cooking as Art and Craft: Understanding the Why and How
00:21:03 Principles of a Great Salad
00:26:24 Sous Vide Cooking Techniques: From Hot Tubs to Blowtorches
00:30:41 Modernist Cuisine: Rethinking Traditional Cooking Techniques
00:37:52 Modern Cooking Techniques for Traditional Dishes
00:40:28 Unconventional Techniques in Culinary Science
00:46:01 Understanding Chemistry in Cooking
00:51:15 Mystery and Magic in the Art of Cooking
00:54:54 The Ethics of Food Production and Consumption

Abstract

Nathan Myhrvold: Blending Culinary Art, Science, and Innovation in Modernist Cuisine

Nathan Myhrvold’s journey from a tech expert to a culinary innovator encapsulates the essence of modernist cuisine, where the boundaries of cooking are constantly being redefined. Starting with an ambitious Thanksgiving feast at age nine, Myhrvold’s culinary career spans attending chef school in France to publishing “Modernist Cuisine,” a groundbreaking book that marries cooking with scientific principles. This article delves into the intricacies of Myhrvold’s work, exploring how he challenges conventional cooking methods, employs cutting-edge techniques like sous vide and centrifuge, and addresses the art and craft of cooking. It also touches upon the broader aspects of food science, including the critique of the organic movement and the controversial practice of force-feeding ducks for foie gras.

Nathan Myhrvold’s Culinary Journey:

At nine years old, Nathan Myhrvold embarked on a unique Thanksgiving dinner project, using Escoffier’s cookbook despite its lack of traditional dishes and cooking instructions. He later collaborated with his younger brother to create “Firecracker Surprise,” a dish that involved flambeing and nearly injuring elderly relatives.

Nathan Myhrvold’s culinary narrative is one of passion and innovation. His journey, beginning with a Thanksgiving meal at nine, led him through the fields of technology and cuisine. His work at Microsoft did not hinder his culinary ambitions; instead, he immersed himself in the art, studying in France and working in a Seattle restaurant. His encounter with modernist cuisine, sparked at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck, inspired his seminal work, “Modernist Cuisine.” The success of this book birthed The Cooking Lab, a hub for culinary research, and later, “Modernist Cuisine at Home,” making avant-garde cooking techniques accessible to home chefs.

The Science Behind Cooking:

The intersection of cooking with science, particularly in methods like sous vide, unveils a new culinary dimension. This technique, favoring low heat and prolonged cooking, contrasts traditional high-heat methods, revealing insights into heat transfer in foods. Such scientific approaches also explain why thicker foods take longer to cook, a principle evident in the difference between cooking steaks and roasts.

Sous vide cooking involves cooking food at low heat in water, typically in a sealed bag. This method allows for precise temperature control and minimizes overcooking. Traditional cooking methods often involve high heat to quickly sear or cook food. High heat can create a desirable crust or texture, but it also requires precise timing to prevent overcooking. Cooking at high temperatures necessitates careful timing to ensure the desired doneness. If the food is not removed from the heat source at the right moment, overcooking can easily occur. Sous vide cooking eliminates the need for precise timing as the food cooks at a constant low temperature. This method ensures uniform cooking throughout the food and minimizes the risk of overcooking.

The rate of heat transfer through conduction, known as diffusion, scales roughly with the square of the thickness. As a result, doubling the thickness of the food approximately quadruples the cooking time. This relationship between thickness and cooking time is often overlooked in cookbooks. The speaker highlights the lack of information in cookbooks regarding the relationship between thickness and cooking time. The speaker emphasizes the importance of adjusting cooking times based on the thickness of the food to achieve optimal results.

Cooking Techniques and Modernist Cuisine:

Cooking the center and surface of food separately allows for different textures and flavors. Techniques like blowtorching, deep-frying, or shallow-frying can create a browned sear while leaving the interior undercooked.

Alternative Steak Cooking Method:

Freeze a steak, then sear it in a cast iron pan with high heat oil until browned. Place the seared steak in an oven at a low temperature to cook the interior perfectly.

Barbecue and Grilling:

Grilling involves cooking meat over high heat, creating fat flare-ups for flavor. Smoking involves cooking meat with low heat and wood chips for a smoky flavor.

Controlling Temperature in a Weber Grill:

Use a small fire with few briquettes and soaked wood chips to create smoke. Add ice to the grill to lower the temperature and achieve a desired range of 140-190 degrees.

Ingredients and Chemicals in Our Pantries:

Ingredients like agar agar, xanthan gum, sodium citrate, and malic acid, often perceived as “chemicals,” are prevalent in our kitchens. These ingredients have been used in various cultures for centuries, and their inclusion in our pantries is beneficial and should not be stigmatized.

Sodium Citrate and Cheese Melting:

Sodium citrate, also known as sour salt, is an ingredient commonly used in the Passover Seder and in mac and cheese recipes. It prevents cheese from separating and becoming stringy, allowing for a smooth and flavorful cheese sauce without the need for excessive starch, which can dull the cheese flavor.

Art and Craft in Cooking:

Cooking, at its core, is both an art and a craft. Myhrvold emphasizes this duality, where the artistry lies in creating emotionally engaging dishes, and the craft focuses on technical proficiency and recipe adherence. This balance empowers cooks to experiment and innovate, giving rise to unique culinary creations.

Informed Cooking and the Integration of Science:

Science is an integral part of cooking, as it helps us understand the laws of nature and how cooking works. By understanding the science behind cooking, we can elevate the taste and quality of our dishes and celebrate the ingredients we use.

Challenging Conventional Cooking Norms:

Modernist cuisine, as advocated by Myhrvold, is a rebellion against traditional cooking practices. It’s an exploration of new possibilities in culinary creativity, driven by a profound understanding of cooking processes. Detailed explanations and visual guides in cookbooks enable cooks to grasp the science behind various techniques, fostering an environment of informed culinary experimentation.

False Dichotomies: Farm-to-Table and Wild Ingredients:

The farm-to-table movement and the use of wild ingredients are not mutually exclusive with embracing science in cooking. Great cooking starts with great ingredients, and understanding how cooking works allows us to celebrate and enhance the flavors of these ingredients.

Practical Insights into Cooking Techniques:

Myhrvold’s approach extends to practical aspects of cooking, like salad preparation, where he stresses the importance of flavor balance and texture. His tips include using a light dressing touch and adding coarse salt at the end for a flavor burst. Similarly, his home cooking lab symbolizes this practicality, equipped with common kitchen gear for recipe development, reflecting a simulated home kitchen environment.

Pea Soup Innovation through Science:

The authors’ innovative approach to pea soup involves splitting peas using a centrifuge, resulting in three components: pea broth, pea starch, and pea butter. This technique yields an intensely sweet pea broth, a flavorful pea butter, and a relatively tasteless pea starch.

Celebrating Ingredients:

Harold McGee emphasizes the importance of celebrating the essential qualities of ingredients when cooking. He believes that peas, for example, should be celebrated for their “earthy” and “meaty” flavors. McGee uses a machine to spin peas at high speed, allowing him to taste them in new and unique ways.

Sous Vide Cooking Demystified:

Sous vide cooking epitomizes Myhrvold’s innovative approach, allowing precise temperature control and even cooking. This method, accessible using everyday items like a cooler or a Ziploc bag, offers unique textures and flavors. It also addresses the challenge of overcooking, especially in meats, by maintaining a consistent low temperature, supplemented by various searing techniques for added texture and flavor.

Decanting Wine:

There are two hypotheses about why decanting wine works: oxidation and outgassing. McGee conducted a test using a blender with pure nitrogen and pure oxygen and found that outgassing, not oxidation, appears to be the more important factor. Various gases, such as sulfur dioxide, CO2, and volatile acids, are present in wine and are released during the outgassing process.

Culinary Innovations and Challenges:

Myhrvold’s work encompasses a range of culinary innovations, from creating a vegan pistachio gelato that doesn’t compromise on flavor to using a centrifuge for ingredient separation. His approach to wine decanting, termed ‘hyper decanting,’ challenges traditional methods, often outperforming them in blind taste tests. These innovations exemplify the continual quest for culinary perfection, regardless of dish status or traditional views.

Mysteries of Cooking:

McGee believes that there are still many mysteries in cooking that have yet to be solved. He provides the example of decanting wine, where the exact mechanism by which it improves the taste of wine is still not fully understood. McGee encourages further research to uncover these mysteries and deepen our understanding of cooking.

Making the Best of Every Dish:

– Sous vide techniques can be used for traditional dishes without plastic bags.

– Roast chicken can be enhanced with syringes to inject flavors and liquids.

– The ultimate version of popular dishes like hamburgers and ice cream is worth pursuing.

A Journey into the World of Food Science and Culinary Innovation:

– Pistachio ice cream made with pistachio oil and ground pistachios offers intense flavor and perfect texture.

– Hyper decanting involves blending wine to enhance its smoothness and drinkability.

– Centrifuge separates food components by density, accelerating the process compared to natural settling.

– Hyper decanted wine often wins in blind taste tests, even against expensive, vintage wines.

Harold McGee’s Philosophical Approach:

McGee can be characterized as an omnivore, open to trying and appreciating a wide variety of foods. He also has a libertarian philosophy, believing in individual freedom and choice. These two aspects of McGee’s philosophy influence his views on issues such as the foie gras ban in California.



Nathan Myhrvold’s influence on modernist cuisine is a testament to the fusion of science, art, and technology in the culinary world. His work challenges traditional cooking norms, advocates for a deeper understanding of cooking processes, and introduces innovative techniques like sous vide and hyper decanting. This culinary journey, while focusing on Myhrvold’s achievements, also sheds light on broader food science topics, encouraging a more informed and exploratory approach to cooking and food consumption.

The Foie Gras Controversy:

The speaker has visited a foie gras farm in Hudson Valley and witnessed the force-feeding process. Ducks are kept in small pens and force-fed a measured amount of grain using a funnel attached to an electric drill. The speaker argues that this method is not particularly cruel compared to other methods of slaughtering animals for food. Ultimately, the speaker believes the foie gras ban is based on gimmicks and hypocrisy.

Ethical Consumption and Individual Choice:

The speaker respects the ethical decision of individuals to refrain from eating meat. However, the speaker criticizes hypocrisy in the food industry, particularly regarding organic food.

Organic Food and Mislabeling:

The organic movement has been undercut by companies exploiting loopholes and mislabeling products. The original U.S. Department of Agriculture organic standards allowed 10 non-organic ingredients, which have now increased to 200. Big food companies mass-produce organic products, diluting the original concept of organic farming.

Nitrite-Free Bacon and Misleading Labels:

Some natural food chains sell nitrite-free bacon that is still red and tastes like bacon. This is achieved by using concentrated celery juice, which is high in nitrites. This practice is misleading and undermines the trust consumers place in organic and natural food labels.


Notes by: Simurgh