Nathan Myhrvold (Intellectual Ventures Co-founder) – Pizza & Innovation | Meb Faber Show (Aug 2021)


Chapters

00:00:16 Exploring the Evolution of Cooking Techniques and Modernist Cuisine
00:11:44 From Mac and Cheese to Coffee: The Shifting Culinary Landscape
00:16:33 Consumer Food Choices: Balancing Nostalgia and Innovation
00:23:01 Pizza: History, Science, and Styles Around the World
00:29:46 Global History of Pizza
00:34:52 Authenticating Pizza in Italy: A Cultural History
00:37:29 Pizza Making: From Traditional Techniques to Creative Toppings
00:46:28 The Complexities of Technological Innovation
00:53:42 Proactive Innovation for a Safer, More Efficient Future
00:58:05 Fascinating Facts about Tardigrades and Chicago Deep Dish Pizza

Abstract

The Culinary Revolution: Exploring the Impact of Modernist Cuisine and Emerging Food Trends

Introduction

Nathan Myhrvold, the renowned chef and author, shares his perspective on modern cooking techniques and the inspiration behind his book, “Modernist Cuisine.” This comprehensive guide emerged from a gap in the market for a comprehensive culinary guide. Its ambition was to document the latest techniques developed by chefs over recent decades. Modernist Cuisine achieved critical acclaim and impressive sales, reflecting its significance in the culinary world.

The Genesis and Triumph of Modernist Cuisine

Myhrvold saw a gap in the culinary world for a comprehensive guide to modern cooking techniques, leading him to write Modernist Cuisine, a groundbreaking five-volume cookbook. The book received widespread acclaim, selling over 300,000 copies and inspiring chefs worldwide to adopt modern techniques. Initially, there was skepticism surrounding certain modern techniques, such as foams and sous vide cooking. However, these techniques have since gained acceptance and are now widely used in professional and home kitchens.

Revolutionizing the Culinary World

“Modernist Cuisine” is not just a cookbook; it’s a fusion of history, science, and stunning photography, offering a detailed guide to modern cooking techniques. It provides precise recipes that are accessible to cooks of all skill levels, democratizing advanced culinary techniques and allowing a broader audience to experiment with innovative dishes.

The Persistence of ‘Bad Food’

Meb Faber and Nathan Myhrvold discussed a paradox: the persistence of ‘bad food’ despite the vast knowledge and recipes available. They concluded that factors like convenience, cost, and personal preferences play significant roles in people’s food choices, often leading to the selection of subpar options.

The Shift in Food Trends

Recently, there has been a notable shift from convenience and price-focused food to a preference for high-quality, premium products. Coffee has undergone a significant transformation from a cheap commodity to a premium product. The rise of Starbucks and independent baristas has led to a demand for high-quality coffee, with consumers willing to pay more for it. This pursuit of high quality has spread throughout the food industry, leading to better options for consumers.

The Rise of National Brands and Nostalgia

Despite the availability of artisanal options, national brands continue to thrive due to their consistent quality and convenience. Additionally, personal preferences and nostalgia often influence food choices, with many individuals favoring familiar foods from their childhood.

The Balance of Automation and Culinary Knowledge

The intersection of automation and increased culinary knowledge presents opportunities to enhance food quality and accessibility. However, finding the right balance between convenience and quality remains a challenge in the food industry.

Pizza: A Case Study in Culinary Evolution

Pizza serves as an illustrative example of culinary evolution and diversity. From its Italian origins to its global spread, pizza has taken on numerous forms, adapting to local tastes and ingredients. The journey of pizza to the Americas highlights how immigrant cultures have shaped culinary traditions, giving rise to unique pizza styles in countries like Brazil and Argentina.

The Evolution of Pizza Styles and Techniques

Pizza styles vary globally, influenced by factors like crust thickness, toppings, and cooking methods. Innovations in cooking technology, such as specialized ovens, have also contributed to the diversity in pizza preparation and taste.

Modernist Cuisine’s Influence on Pizza

“Modernist Cuisine” has also left its mark on pizza, offering creative recipes and encouraging experimentation with toppings and sauces. The book’s approach reflects a broader trend towards innovation and personalization in cooking.

The Culinary Journey of Pizza through History, Science, and Global Styles

Nathan Myhrvold, an expert in the science of cooking, and his team embark on an in-depth exploration of pizza, its history, scientific principles, and diverse styles worldwide.

Historical Context

Italian pizza’s origins are traced back 1500 years, with early recipes resembling Thai cuisine. Pizza’s history is often embellished with tales of family recipes and secret ingredients, appealing to the allure of culinary tradition.

Scientific Insights

Pizza ovens rely primarily on radiant heat, similar to broilers, due to their high temperatures. The open doors of professional pizza ovens prioritize radiant heat over air temperature. Uneven temperatures within pizza ovens necessitate the use of peels to rotate the pizza and ensure even cooking. The puffy edges of pizza result from the evaporation of sauce moisture, not from thicker dough or the weight of toppings.

Global Pizza Styles

Pizza’s global popularity is nearly universal, with almost every country having a pizzeria. Variations in pizza styles primarily involve crust thickness, topping quantity, and presentation. Thin crust pizzas contrast with thick, bread-like crusts, while toppings range from minimal to abundant. Deep-dish pizzas, like Chicago-style, feature a thick crust filled with toppings like a pie. Cracker-like pizzas with minimal toppings offer a crispy, savory snack.

Brazilian Pizza

Brazilian pizza is a unique style characterized by its thin crust, generous toppings, and use of catupiry cheese, a soft, creamy cheese similar to mozzarella. This style of pizza is popular in Brazil and has gained recognition internationally for its flavorful combination of ingredients.

The History of Pizza: A Journey from Italy to the World

Pizza’s Arrival in the United States:

Pizza’s introduction to the US can be traced back to Italian immigration in the 1870s, following Italy’s unification and subsequent economic and political turmoil.

Pizza’s Unique Evolution in Brazil:

Brazil’s pizza culture, originating in the 19th century, is influenced by Italian immigrants from Naples, resulting in a distinct style of pizza. Pizza in Brazil is considered a white tablecloth fancy food, primarily served for dinner, with one exception: a pizzeria in Sao Paulo that opened for lunch, causing both shock and delight among locals.

Differences Between Pizza Cultures in Sao Paulo and Buenos Aires:

The pizza cultures of Sao Paulo and Buenos Aires have developed independently due to language and geographical barriers, resulting in unique variations in style and ingredients.

The Journey of Tomatoes to Europe:

Tomatoes, initially native to South America, were brought to Europe by Christopher Columbus’ third expedition in 1493, but faced mistrust due to their resemblance to the poisonous deadly nightshade plant. Italy, surprisingly, was the last region in Europe to fully accept tomatoes, which only gained widespread popularity in the 20th century.

Pizza’s Niche Status in Italy:

If pizza had remained confined to Naples, it likely would have remained a niche food product, given Italy’s hyper-local culinary traditions where each village or region has its own unique dishes. Attempts to expand pizza beyond Naples within Italy in the 20th century gained limited traction.

Pizza Fritta: A Unique Variation:

Pizza fritta, a deep-fried calzone-like dish, is a variation of pizza that has not gained popularity in the US despite America’s love for both deep-fried food and pizza.

Tardigrades, Deep-Dish Pizza, and Chef Myhrvold’s Favorite Slice:

– Chef Myhrvold’s favorite pizza is deep-dish Chicago-style pizza. He enjoys its density and deliciousness, comparing it to a casserole of pizza-related ingredients.

– Tardigrades, also known as water bears, are tiny animals that can survive extreme conditions. Chef Myhrvold’s shirt features a tardigrade with the motto “water bear don’t care,” symbolizing the strangeness and wonder of the world.

Modernist Pizza Book:

– Chef Myhrvold’s book, Modernist Pizza, is due out in the fall. The book explores the science and art of pizza-making, providing insights into the different styles and techniques used to create this beloved dish.

The Curious Journey of Pizza and Recommended Recipes to Try

Pizza’s Global Journey:

In the United States, pizza gained immense popularity, becoming a beloved dish that eventually spread its influence back to Europe. American tourists played a significant role in introducing pizza to the world, leading to the resurgence of authentic Neapolitan pizza in the 1990s.

Pizza’s Evolution:

The traditional way of making pizza in Naples, often referred to as “authentic” or “traditional,” is not necessarily true to its historical roots but remains delicious. Pizza culture is filled with unique and interesting aspects that contribute to its global appeal.

Recommended Pizza Recipes for Home Ovens:

For home ovens, thicker crust or very thin crust pizzas are ideal. Nancy Silverton’s dough recipe is highly recommended as a starting point. Experiment with various styles, such as Neapolitan, New York, Detroit, and Sicilian, to discover personal preferences.

Varieties of Pizza:

– Neapolitan pizzas require extremely high temperatures, but Detroit-style or focaccia-style pizzas are easier to make at home.

– Classic New York pizzas are either cheese or cheese and pepperoni.

– The book provides creative pizza recipes with various toppings, sauces, and combinations.

– It also includes a section on adapting your favorite pasta or soup recipes into pizza recipes.

Leoparding and Pizza Steel:

– To achieve leoparding (dark spots) on your pizza, use a pizza steel or thick metal plate instead of a stone.

– The metal plate releases heat quickly, creating the desired effect.

Frozen Pizza:

– Nathan Myhrvold does not recommend frozen pizza and would rather skip a meal than eat it.

Ranking Dough, Sauce, and Toppings:

– The most important quality depends on the pizza style.

– In thin-crust pizzas, toppings are more important, while in deep-dish pizzas, the crust plays a larger role.

– Cross-crusting experiments revealed that using different doughs for different pizza styles can result in delicious and innovative pizzas.

– Sauce plays a crucial role in balancing the grease from cheese and meat, and it should have a sweet and tart balance.

Automated Pizza-Making Machines:

– Several startups attempted to create robotic pizza-making machines, but many failed due to high costs and reliability issues.

– The day when affordable and reliable robot pizza makers become available is eagerly anticipated.

Technological Innovation and Capital in Culinary Ventures

Nathan Myhrvold’s broader impact extends beyond the kitchen. His emphasis on technological innovation and the flow of capital to groundbreaking ideas has been instrumental in driving societal progress. This is evident in diverse fields, from nuclear energy to simple web services, highlighting the varying challenges in securing funding for innovative projects.

The Future of Culinary Exploration

Looking ahead, Myhrvold expresses excitement about new frontiers, including space exploration and a dessert cookbook. His enthusiasm for continuous innovation and exploration mirrors the evolving nature of the culinary world.

Conclusion

The journey of “Modernist Cuisine” and the evolution of food trends reflect a broader narrative of innovation, cultural exchange, and technological advancement. From the persistence of ‘bad food’ to the global journey of pizza, these culinary phenomena illustrate the dynamic interplay between tradition, personal preferences, and modern technology in shaping our food choices and experiences. As we continue to explore new culinary horizons, it is this spirit of innovation and exploration that will guide the future of cooking and dining.


Notes by: crash_function