Nathan Myhrvold (Intellectual Ventures Co-founder) – Modernist Pizza at NY Pizza Festival (May 2021)


Chapters

00:00:06 Exploring Food Science and Innovation through Freeze Drying
00:05:15 Behind the Scenes: Capturing Culinary Delights in a Photo Studio
00:09:05 Dough Texture Analysis in Pizza Dough Experimentation
00:13:35 Exploring Ultracentrifugation and 3D Scanning in Food Science
00:18:31 Measuring Pizza Volume for Quality Control
00:21:16 Industrial Chocolate Equipment and Machinery
00:25:44 Ultrasonic Technology in Food Preparation
00:27:44 Emulsification Techniques for Culinary Applications
00:30:50 Neapolitan Pizza Making Techniques
00:36:53 Neapolitan Pizza Baking Techniques

Abstract

Harnessing Advanced Techniques in Modern Culinary Science: A Journey Through Innovation in Cooking



Abstract:

This article delves into the innovative practices in modern culinary science, highlighting the transformative use of specialized equipment and techniques in enhancing food preparation, preservation, and presentation. From the intricate freeze-drying process to the subtle art of perfecting pizza, we explore the intersections of science and culinary artistry that define modern gastronomy.



The Science of Freeze Drying: Revolutionizing Food Preservation

At the forefront of culinary innovation lies the freeze-drying process, a technique transforming the preservation of food. Freeze drying involves removing moisture from food through vacuum, vacuum pressure, and condensation, where water transitions directly from solid to gas without melting. This technique, effective at temperatures around -60 degrees Celsius, results in a shelf-stable product while retaining the food’s nutritional value. It is also used for experimental purposes, such as visualizing the inside of fermented dough without compromising its integrity.

Freeze Drying’s Versatile Applications in Culinary Arts

Freeze drying’s versatility extends from creating unique, flavorful ingredients to preserving food for extended periods without preservatives. Its significance is further magnified in space exploration, where it prepares nutritionally dense food for astronauts, underlining its importance in challenging environments. It is also used for practical purposes, such as creating astronaut ice cream and freeze-dried pizza. Freeze-dried tomatoes can be pulverized and added to tomato sauce to enhance flavor. Freeze-dried margarita pizza can be pulverized and mixed into dough to create a more flavorful pizza.

Exploring Culinary Frontiers at the Modernist Cuisine Lab

The Modernist Cuisine Lab, an epicenter of culinary research, employs advanced equipment like freeze dryers to push the boundaries of cooking. Its contributions to modernist culinary techniques are captured in influential publications, notably “Modernist Cuisine” and “Modernist Bread.”

Behind the Scenes: Capturing Culinary Art

Chris Hoover’s role in the Modernist Cuisine Lab emphasizes the intersection of photography and culinary arts. Tasked with capturing over half a million photographs for the “Modernist Bread Book,” Hoover’s work underscores the visual storytelling integral to modern culinary literature. The head photographer takes pictures for the Modernist Bread Book. Half a million photographs were taken for the book, and 6,000 were used. Modular sets are built for different projects. The studio has a rotary evaporator for distilling liquids.

Rotary Evaporator: A Flavor Enhancer

The rotary evaporator stands as a testament to culinary innovation, concentrating flavors without cooking and preserving their freshness. A notable application is its use in creating a concentrated tomato sauce, demonstrating its ability to enhance flavors through gentle warming and condensation. The process involves a water bath, a coil, a vacuum pump, and a coolant pump. The vacuum pulls out the air, and the coolant condenses the water vapor into droplets. The clear liquid that results tastes like tomatoes but dilutes the flavor. The concentrated tomato flavor is what is desired.

Advanced Machinery in Modernist Kitchens

The Modernist Cuisine Lab’s repertoire includes a range of machines, such as the Texture Analyzer, which functions as an extensograph to measure dough strength and elasticity. This machine offers factual recommendations based on scientific data, ensuring consistent quality in pizza making. The texture analyzer, modified to function as an extensograph, measures the strength and elasticity of dough. The robotic finger of the machine stretches the dough strips until they snap, providing data for analysis. Dough strips are placed in divots of a metal piece and pulled by the robotic finger. The machine averages the strength required to rip the dough, providing an accurate assessment of its properties. Dough testing helps determine the suitability of different flours for various pizza types. Strength and elasticity are crucial factors in selecting the appropriate flour. The machine provides factual data to support recommendations for specific flour choices. Extensive testing was conducted with different flours and pizza doughs for the cookbook.

Ultracentrifuge: Pushing the Boundaries in Food Preparation

An ultracentrifuge, typically reserved for scientific research, finds its place in culinary experimentation. Its ability to separate substances based on density enables the creation of unique food textures and components, exemplified by its use in preparing components of pea puree for dishes like pasta and consommé.

3D Scanning: Precision in Volume Measurement

The use of a 3D scanner, particularly by Evan Herman, demonstrates the lab’s commitment to precision. This technology allows for accurate volume measurements of irregularly shaped foods, aiding in quality control and research, particularly in pizza analysis.

Innovating Chocolate Production with Specialized Equipment

The lab’s chocolate production area showcases a range of specialized equipment, from Panners to Tempering Machines and an improvised Spray Station. These tools reflect the meticulous nature of chocolate making, from achieving the perfect consistency to ensuring a clean workspace.

Ultrasonic Technology in Culinary Arts

Ultrasonic technology has been adapted for culinary uses, such as cleaning and enhancing food textures. For instance, ultrasonic waves are employed to create crispy French fries with a soft center, highlighting the potential for commercial application. Ultrasonic waves can also be used to clean jewelry gently and effectively.

The Art of Pizza Making: A Culinary Symphony

The journey through culinary innovation culminates in the art of pizza making. Techniques like using semolina durum flour to prevent sticking, shaping the dough, and applying toppings underscore the precision and care invested in creating the perfect pizza. The process involves careful application of sauce, cheese, and olive oil, followed by baking in a way that achieves the desired ‘leoparding’ effect on the crust. Pre or post-bake application of tomato sauce to pizza is a matter of personal preference. Toasted brioche vodka is a unique and flavorful creation. Specialized recipes for uncommon applications are not typically included in cookbooks.

Francisco Migoya’s Neapolitan Pizza: Shaping, Saucing, and Topping

Francisco Migoya, a renowned Neapolitan pizza chef, has developed specific techniques for shaping, saucing, and topping pizza. These techniques include carefully transferring the pizza to the peel, rotating the pizza in the oven to achieve an even bake, and doming the pizza briefly to create the characteristic leoparding on the crust. Migoya emphasizes the importance of using high-quality ingredients and carefully controlling the baking process to create the perfect Neapolitan pizza.

The Confluence of Science and Culinary Artistry

The exploration of advanced techniques and equipment in modern culinary science reveals a fascinating convergence of science and art. From freeze drying to ultracentrifugation and the meticulous preparation of pizza, these innovations not only enhance the culinary experience but also expand the possibilities of what can be achieved in the kitchen. The Modernist Cuisine Lab serves as a beacon of this culinary revolution, where science and creativity blend to redefine the boundaries of cooking.


Notes by: oganesson