Nathan Myhrvold (Intellectual Ventures Co-founder) – Modernist Pizza (Oct 2021)


Chapters

00:00:07 Modernist Pizza: A Comprehensive Guide to the Art of Pizza Making
00:12:27 History and Evolution of Neapolitan Pizza
00:17:40 Evolution of Pizza Around the World
00:25:13 Global Pizza Pilgrimage: Exploring World-Famous Pizzerias
00:27:21 Exploring the World of Pizza: A Culinary Journey Across Continents
00:36:38 Global Exploration of Unique Pizza Styles and Techniques
00:49:22 Pizza Innovation: Exploring New Frontiers of Taste
01:02:33 The Science of Pizza Toppings
01:06:06 Exploring the Art and Science of Pizza Making
01:15:41 After Party Discussion

Abstract

The Evolution and Cultural Significance of Pizza: An In-Depth Exploration

“Modernist Pizza: Unraveling the Global Journey of a Beloved Dish”

Nathan Myhrvold and Peter Reinhart take center stage in their extensive exploration of pizza’s evolution, from its humble beginnings in Naples to its global reach, documented in their remarkable work, “Modernist Pizza.” This monumental four-volume epic delves into pizza’s history, fundamentals, techniques, and recipes, encapsulating the dish’s cultural significance and impact on gastronomy. Nathan Myhrvold emphasizes that pizza knowledge can’t be fully acquired just by reading cookbooks. To truly understand global pizza, they embarked on a journey to famous pizza cities and pizzerias. The team encountered a surprising level of openness among pizza makers. Most were willing to share their recipes and techniques, providing valuable insights into the craft. This comprehensive study unravels pizza’s journey, highlighting key discoveries, ingredients, techniques, and cultural nuances that have shaped it into a global phenomenon.



The Making of “Modernist Pizza”

Nathan Myhrvold, the founder of The Cooking Lab, embarked on an extraordinary journey, traveling over 100,000 miles and visiting 300 pizzerias worldwide, resulting in the extensive “Modernist Pizza.” This research-intensive project, spanning 1,708 pages and complemented by a kitchen-friendly manual with stain-resistant pages, is divided into four volumes and a spiral-bound kitchen manual. It includes 1016 recipes and deepens the understanding of the whys and hows of pizza making. The Johnson & Wales International Symposium on Bread, presented by Puratos, brings together thought leaders in bread and pizza, supported by numerous sponsors, including Ardent Mills, Lindley Mills, Central Milling, WP Bakery Group, ProBiotein, Fire Within, Big Green Egg, Mock Mill, Cook’s Country, The Local Palate, the James Beard Foundation, and the Bread Bakers Guild of America.

Cultural Significance and Global Reach

“Modernist Pizza” delves into the cultural and territorial aspects of pizza, exploring the emotional and traditional values associated with it, particularly in Italy. The book, encased in a unique Ferrari red stainless steel case, debunks common pizza myths and traces pizza’s origins back to Naples as a cuisine for the poor. It notes the transformation of Neapolitan pizza with the introduction of Farin de Manitoba post-World War II and highlights historical inaccuracies in pizza’s portrayal, citing earlier mentions in French and English literature than in Italian cookbooks.

Unique Pizza Traditions in Argentina, Brazil, and Alsace

Pizza traditions vary significantly across the world. In Argentina, pizza is known for its abundant cheese and is typically eaten with a knife and fork. Sao Paulo, Brazil, treats pizza as a fine-dining experience, often served in white tablecloth restaurants, with Sunday nights being the peak time for family gatherings around pizza. Flamkuchen, a dish from Alsace that closely resembles modern-day pizza in appearance and composition, was traditionally made by bakers as they waited for their ovens to heat up. The French even attempted to claim Flamkuchen as “tart flambe.”

Historical Perspectives and Myths

Peter Reinhart and Nathan Myhrvold’s journey reveals pizza’s diverse adaptations globally. They emphasize pizza’s success in creativity and adaptation, not rigid adherence to origins. The term “pizza” shares a root with “pita,” indicating a shared ancestry with flatbreads from the eastern Mediterranean. Interestingly, historical recipes for pizza appear in French and English texts well before Italian cookbooks, suggesting a broader culinary context for its development.

Pizza’s Evolution and Adaptation

The authors humorously warn against “unforgivable” practices in pizza making, while exploring unconventional styles like Altaglio and Detroit pizza, and the gourmet movement in Northern Italy. They also discuss the versatility of cross-crusting and deep-dish pizzas, highlighting the willingness to experiment beyond traditional boundaries.

Ingredients: Flour, Cheese, and Tomatoes

The book provides insights into the choice of flour, particularly Caputo double zero flour, and the nuances of cheese, especially mozzarella di bufala. It discusses the variations in flavor and texture of mozzarella di bufala across regions and the importance of tomato sauce quality over regional specificity.

Flour and Cheese Insights

Caputo double zero flour, renowned for pizza making, originated with Italian-American immigrants in Naples. Tony Gemignani uses a different dough for each pizza on his menu. Mozzarella di bufala in Italy differs in flavor and texture from that in the United States, often having a tang due to aging. Fresh mozzarella di bufala changes texture after about ten days. Some pizzerias make their own mozzarella by heating and stretching curd. Mozzarella di bufala, made from buffalo milk, is richer in flavor due to higher fat content. Cow’s milk has a yellowish tint from carotene, while buffalo and goat milk are white. Cow’s milk can be enriched with extra fat to mimic buffalo milk’s flavor, and herbs and other ingredients can be infused into mozzarella for unique flavors.

Tomato Insights

Italy was one of the last parts of Europe to accept tomatoes, with Tuscany being the last. While San Marzano tomatoes are associated with a specific region near Vesuvius, there are other excellent tomatoes as well. The book clarifies that using fresh tomatoes doesn’t necessarily mean they’re uncooked, as canned tomatoes are also cooked.

Toppings and Ovens

Toppings like pineapple and olives, and inventions like cupping pepperoni, showcase the evolving palate for pizza. The discussion on ovens highlights the difference between professional and home baking setups, emphasizing radiant energy’s importance in pizza ovens. Pizza steels are recommended for home bakers for better crust results.

Cupping Pepperoni and Oven Recommendations

Cupping pepperoni has become a popular trend in the United States. The book explains the phenomenon of cupping and its occurrence. An old Hormel advertisement from 1988 shows their pepperoni not cupping, unlike other brands. Today, cupping pepperoni is sold at a premium, with Hormel among the sellers. Pizza steels, made of thick metal, are recommended for achieving the proper bottom crust, offering more precise heat control compared to pizza stones.

Future Explorations and Concluding Thoughts

As the team ventures into pastry, their study of pizza provides insights into why it has become the world’s most popular imported dish. The article concludes with gratitude to technical and production partners, emphasizing the collaborative effort behind this comprehensive study of pizza. This article presents a deep dive into the world of pizza, as documented in “Modernist Pizza.” From its historical roots to modern-day innovations, the journey of pizza is a testament to culinary creativity and cultural adaptation. The work of Nathan Myhrvold, Peter Reinhart, and their team offers a new perspective on this beloved dish, making “Modernist Pizza” not just a culinary guide but a cultural artifact.


Notes by: WisdomWave